Future career in PUZZLES

We got to rest in the morning for a while which was so nice and refreshing, meeting up with Anne, another person Dr. Hill lived with (Ludo's ex-girl friend), and her son Nicolas (Ludo and Anne's 20 something yr old son) and her boyfriend. We met up with them for lunch, they made fun of laughing cow cheese advertisements, and they showed us the history of Lille. That afternoon we visited Ludo in his "office". He works for the state as an archaeologist and we got to see all the artifacts in storage and the lab.  I think I could be a ceramic specialist. The one thing Ludo said you needed to have if you wanted to work with ceramics is a passion for puzzles. DONE. I'm a puzzle freak. In the lab all of the pieces of ceramics were being put back together, with glue and tape, to recreate the original dishes. All day, people put the pieces to these puzzles back together. That's their job (well not really there is more to it but that is definitely one big part). 

So of course I left feeling reassured about my potential future in archaeology. The horrible feeling I had had the night before was still there, it just changed into something else. I don't know if it was for the best though. I say I felt horrible that night, but really it was terrifying. Terrifying because I know I was realizing the answers to questions and beginning to discover just what I will have  to do to really and truly follow the way in the manner I have always envisioned, which is terrifying but also exciting. Although I think I'll let my terror/excitement rest until I get back home…or Taize…or my time alone in Les Eyzies…or now. 

Why now in France?

We drove to Lille today. All day long. Drive drive drive. It was nice though, I got to read Irresistible Revolution and the Bible more, but that might not have been for the best. Explanation later. 

We made it to Lille though, got a hotel to stay at (another long ordeal of trying to find the hotel but less stressful that Lyon). We then had the afternoon to do whatever we wanted. So, naturally, the girls headed off and we went shopping.

I felt really bad buying clothes, even though it was just 2 shirts and a tank top. It was horrible. Largely due to actually reading the gospel and really thinking about taking ole JC seriously and giving everything up to follow him. Bad I tell you. That night we went out with Ludo's family again which was fun. I was just really upset that night, again because of the whole JC thing. Being over in France has not been a good place to actually start thinking this deep. For one thing, I can't speak the language which is a HUGE hindrance. It's also bad to think about while you are in Europe for crying out loud, having the privilege to travel and see all of these places. It was the first and only time I cried on the trip, and started writing this long entry about my dilemma.  But like most things, it got to be around 1:30 in the morning and I made myself go to sleep.

After settling in, we met up with Ludo, one of Dr. Hill's friends with whom he lived with while living in France, and his family. His son was so well behaved and read 2 books while we were at dinner and drinks. Impressive, most impressive. I don't know how these French kids do it, but if American children had to sit at the dinner table for the 2 hours that French dinner takes…there would be lots and lots of unhappy campers. 

The Hills are Alive with the Sound of Music (Ohh ohh ahh ahh ahh ah)

We sent out to see all the Bronze Age sites on this trip in one day. We went to a hill fort which was neat. When we got to the top of the ill I had to repress the extremely large desire to starting belting the hills are alive with the sound of music and start spinning in circles in the field. It almost happened. I did let a few notes though of climb every mountain, ford every stream, follow every rainbow, Till You Find YOur DREAMMMMSSSSSS. If only the cousins had been there. 

It's times like these when I wish I had a Banwell (our musically talented cousins who are the only ones in the family that can sing well-sorry Clements) call, and the Banwells would magically beam down and start singing. In my head I was singing the entire Sound of Music soundtrack, and kept thinking of one night when we were in Costa Rica over Christmas break after kids dinner. There is always at least one meal where the parents go off on their own and the kids fend for themselves. On the way back up the hill to the house from the kids meal, all of us started BELTING out show tunes, mainly sound of music, and singing the entire way up. Only a few of us (not me) can sing well, but we all still sing as loud as we can all day ury day. It made me really homesick, missing my family, but also got me really excited about August when we shall all be reunited!!! Maybe we will even finally put on a production of the Sound of Music. Hmm…I don't know how our parents would feel watching their grown children putting on a show…maybe they can make a drinking game out of it or something. Every time a voice cracks, drink. Every time we start laughing, drink. Hmm, that might not go over so well. 

We got to see Vic's Crater and this wonderful museum in some town that we ending up staying the night in, but I cannot remember the name for the life of me. It was really neat, especially seeing all of the Greek stuff. What really got me though was the wooden sculpture of Jesus on the cross from the Middle Ages. As I stared up at Jesus, I swear he was moving. It looked as if he was breathing. It looked so real. I don't know what it was about this piece, but it was so moving, both literally and figuratively. Amazing. 

The Hike

We had one last breakfast with the Pollinis and then said goodbye, heading off for Lyon. We saw a Roman aqueduct  and played in this beautiful river, but then made our way into the city. Lyon is a pretty big city. It's also on a hill. A very large hill. Hill. Did I mention it was on a hill?

We couldn't drive up the hill to where the hostel was because all the roads we were trying to get on were one ways and do not enters.  So Robin, Seth, and I hopped out of the car and made our way up the mountain, sorry, hill. We made our way up this one street that was at a 75-80% incline-no lie. It felt good, but can you imagine carrying your luggage up that especially when the heavens were about to open and it was to down pour? Not fun. After about 30 mins of wondering, asking for help, and following our instinct, however, we made it to the hostel. There, however, we had to wait about another hour before we got our rooms and got everyone together. 

We went out after the rain calmed down a bit and headed towards the medieval city. There we saw the cathedral and all its glory. What was really cool was that the spot where the church was located had had a church of some sorts there since around 150 CE with a Roman Christian community living there. Cool, huh?

We then searched for a nice restaurant. Lyon apparently is known for its food, and I will vouch for that. We choose a spot, and ordered. I got escargot. Oh yes. And it was delicious. Mainly because they are SOAKED in butter. Yum. Can't go wrong there. 

I got to go for a run while in Lyon. I hadn't been running the entire trip (still haven't been since then but plan to change that in Les Eyzies), and was gettin' antsy, especially cause any abs that had thought about forming any kind of pack before the summer started have definitely retreated back and let the pudge and future truffle shufflers take over. Come on abs, unite! 

I went on a 30 min jog, running up and down the hill, but it was surprisingly not that difficult and I wasn't even sore, even with the hills. I guess that's a good thing because it means I'm in better shape than I thought, but I really wanted to feel something, the reward, from running. 

The hostel we stayed in had a lot of young folks and in our room we had these two girls from Australia named Cat and Abby who were really sweet. The hostel also had free wifi which was nice (I know, I know, I should have updated my blog then, but the road was calling). 

Woah woo listen to the music

neim arles music fest

Today, sans Jacques, we went to the villages of Neim and Arles. We got to see a lot of stuff. Some more Roman things and Medieval, oh and a colosseum that was (in my opinion, though I've never been to Rome) cooler than the one in Rome.  The best, though, was when we came back to Avignon. 

We noticed something was going on when all of the roads were being closed off and every place we went to had stages set up everywhere, including the impressive colosseum. Walking in Arles looking for glaces (ice cream), we walked past a stage with a teenage boy band singing Tracy Chapman's Talking Bout a Revolution but with French accents. 

We finally made it back to Avignon with some traffic detours because all the roads were being blocked off and Jacques informed us that the 21st of June is a national music day where most towns and cities closes their streets and have lots and lots of artists perform. So after another amazing dinner of this gnocchi (which I didn't eat but had never seen before which was cool) and sausage meat, but the good parts of the animal (lamb) with lots and lots of herbs, we headed off to down town to hear the music.

There were so many people out! We got out pretty late (every night we ate with the Pollinis we didn't start eating until 9 at the earliest…typical French dining), but there were still people playing. While we were walking we heard drumming and a Brazilian Drum group walked by. There were like 30-35 people with various percussion instruments gettin' it. DANK. So cool.

We heard a couple of djs, some jazz, some 90s and 70s music cover band who played some nice red hot chilly peppers. The best though was the 80s cover band. The drum was good, but the guitarist and bassist were SICK. The guitarist kept changing into these goofy hats the entire time, had long curly hair, and was AWESOME! It was interesting to listen to the French hits from the 80s and see people react to them. Like how we would all cheer and get really excited if something we all knew started playing except it was French so we couldn't understand the words, but could definitely feel the music.

We stayed there for a while. Jacques really got into it and kept doing these salsa dancing moves. It was hysterical. He was so pumped up. We were all exhausted though. Mariah was having a good time.  I felt lame though cause I was such  wuss for not dancing and getting into it. To be fair, I needed a new pair of contacts and we had been up all day and it was now 1 in the morning, but still. No excuses. I should have been BOLD. 

Châteauneuf-du-Pape

Avignon picnic with jacques.  

Whoa. Jacques is an energizer bunny that never stops. He took us on a tour of the local area, we saw the amazing Roman ruins and traversed across the country side and sampled the local vineyards and got to see these old shelters made of stone but without any mortar or anything to hold it together, just the rocks. Amazing. Our highlighted path through France is nice and smooth and pretty and then it hits avignon and goes CRAY CRAY. Over lay a bunch of figure 8s and that's what you'll get. 

We went and had lunch on the side of a mountain with the villages and shelters dotting the country side. We had this delicious cheese, 4 different kinds, my favorite being the fresh one (I can't remember the names of anything I have no idea how to spell it all). We had sausage, cherries, apricots, and Chateut nuf de Pape (hope I spelled that right). It was my favorite meal of the trip, and just a wonderful, delightful experience. 

Hands down, with out a doubt, THE best wine I have ever had (I haven't had that much wine, but even Jacques, a Frenchman, kept going on about how good it was). The flavors just take over your taste buds. It goes across your whole tongue, and is just this amazing sensation. The flavor was just so rich. I think it might have helped, however, that we were sitting on the side of a mountain, in France, drinking this delicacy straight out of the bottle. I know this wine is expensive (it was like 22 euros for a bottle in the region it was made so I can't IMAGINE how much it would cost in the USA…umm Christmas/Birthday present anyone??? If they have some in the airport duty free I'm totally buying some. Don't care how ridiculous it is. Probably won't taste as good, but I need to bring some back for my family. Mom-you HAVE to try some.). Gosh that wine was so darn good. 

The vineyards we went to were AMAZING! The first one we went to had this mix that was just to die for. The had a chestnut syrup of sorts that was like the syrups you get to put in fancy pants coffee drinks and such but made there. The lady mixed that with the rose wine. AH! I wish I had purchased some. Dumb. If I see some of it anywhere else I will for sure get it. 

We sampled this wine whose grapes had come from 80 yr old plants, didn't know that the age of the plants themselves made a difference, but you could really tell a difference between the younger plants and the old bunch. 

We went to 3 different vineyards, had at least 2 glasses worth at each vineyard, so by the end of it we were all pretty happy.  Jacques, since he was driving he didn't have that much, said that it was funny how talkative we all got.

We ended the day by going back to Avignon and having dinner with Jacques and his parents. We had this pasta dish called carbanara? but it had Dr. Pollini's own family spin on it. oh my goodness gracious it was so good. They made me gluten free pasta too!!! So exciting!!! They were so sweet! Got me gluten free bread and rice cakes as well!!! So nice! We enjoyed the chestnut and rose wine mix over splendid conversation and ended the meal, again, with cherries and cheese. Jacques mom says that every meal must have a plate of cheese in it. She sure does like her cheese.

The only downside to this day was that the mosquitos discovered us. They bit us everywhere. Just the girls though (because we are so sweet!), but these bug bites were so unlike the ones back home.  They swelled up and are still here even a week and a half later (I'm writing this on the 29…I've been really bad about keeping up with journaling recently-sorry!). But it was comforting to be able to stay in a family home with a French family, and feel the love. 

A real French family

Arrived in Avignon. Today we arrived in Avignon. We are staying with Dr. Jacques Pollini at his parent's house in Avignon right outside the city walls. When we got there they welcomed us with open arms and showed us to our rooms.  Robin and I stayed in one of Jacques' sisters' old room with a bed at the bottom and then a bed in a loft. I love lofts. It was the most adorable house, filled with the family's history.  Jacques' dad was a doctor, a kidney doctor or something like that. His mom worked for the city but now was retired, as was his dad, and volunteered.  After dropping off our stuff we went downstairs to the kitchen to find that everyone was sitting outside on their patio. They had a large backyard which was their garden and several tables that they were setting up for dinner. Jacques started a fire in the pit for the French style bbq. Just grilling, but this was not on a grill but right over an open fire (YUM). Placing crackers, olives, cashews, nuts, and some sort of olive mix sauce that looked like grey poupon mustard, in front of us, they began offering us all this food and various assortments of juices. 

Cherry juice is really good. New found love I have discovered over here: cherries. Absolutely delicious. I even have fed cherries to someone while I've been over here, but that's for a different story.  Oh, another new found love: olives. I freaking LOVE olives. I think they taste better over here though because they are grown over here, olive trees everywhere. Probably.

We were famished and ate lots of appetizers only to realize that the Pollinis like to cook and eat. A lot. A lot a lot. They brought out the entree which was some cantaloupe (DELICIOUS) and some sausage from their village of Corrisica? OH MY GOSH THAT WAS THE DANKEST SAUSAGE EVARRR! It was so good. Sausage and a ham sausage that was just to DIE for! Then they cleared the table and brought out the main course (I was already full by this point). Dr. Pollini had been cooking more sausage and lamb (DOUBLE YUM) and piled it on our plates, while Mrs. Pollini brought out this zucchini dish. 

Zucchini dish: 

Brown like half and onion I think in some olive oil

cut up some zucchini and cook it with the onions for a little bit

put it in an oven dish. 

put lots of light light sour cream on top

then shred some parmesan on top and bake

DEVINE 

It was one of the best meals I've ever had.  Then they brought out fruit and a variety of cheeses, which were also delicious, and we were drinking lots of wine the entire evening. Afterwards we had a digestive (a shot of liquor that was grape flavor or made from grapes or something along those lines). We were so full! But it was so nice to be staying with a real French family. They are the sweetest people. Then we were off to bed! Oh, before we went to bed, however, they warned us about the mosquitos…

I didn't think anything of it at the time, naturally thinking French mosquitos had nothing on the ones in Arkansas, so I confidently threw open the windows and let the cool night air in.  During the middle of the night I heard one literally right in my ear. I swear it was in my ear, although it didn't bite me. But that was the beginning of the swarm...

The Men and Woman of Olonne Sur Mer

Andre, Michelle, Christian, Bernard, and Paul.  These guys are amazing.  I'd put them in the top 10 for just the best group of people I have ever met.  They are all retired and, I think, over 60.  They all are certified divers, and are underwater archaeologists.  Well, minus Michelle.  Michelle is Bernard's wife (we think…we didn't really know and since only Andre spoke really good English, this is just information we gathered that we think is correct).  They all referred to her as their Cook.  Very jokingly, but that was their whole attitudes.  They just joked all the time.  Everything they talked about they just made into a merry conversation.  
Bernard had a very jolly face, with large glass held on by croakies, very defined forehead wrinkles and crows feet that just seemed to be how he always looked.  He was basically bald, and was the head diver.  Michelle was very sweet and an amazing cook! Even though they were joking about that, she really was there, well probably for Bernard, but cooked for them for the 15 days they were there.  She was very happy and just smiled all the time.  Paul was Andre's brother.  They look almost exactly alike, although Paul is a bit shorter.  He has been a diver for most of his life, and Andre said that one day after Andre retired Paul told him to come diving because everything is better in the sea.  Everything is better down beneath the water.  I have to say, I agree with him.  Paul was bow-legged and had a big beard.  He spent a year in California back in either 1961, 62, or 64-we're not sure exactly.  He was very happy though, and when they had been diving that day they collected some oysters that they saw.  Paul was on the back porch shucking oysters for us to eat.  They hadn't been prepared or anything, so he was offering us very fresh oysters.  We all tried one, and as much as I wanted to like it…I nearly hurled.  It tasted a lot like the ocean, but idk I just couldn't handle it.  Maybe if I had had some wine to go with it or lemon juice? My mom loves them, so maybe if we have some again I'll have to try them and see if they are better prepared.  Andre and Paul kept saying though (in very broken English with thick heavy French accents) you either love or hate oysters, no in between.  Andre was absolutely ADORABLE. He spoke pretty good English, and we could all communicate with the help of a few translation problems that were solved with help from conversation between Dr. HIll and Andre.  He kept making sound effects to describe all of the different marine archaeology techniques he was describing.  Andre was the most agile person I've seen in a while, especially considering he had to be at least over 70 yrs old.  It was amazing all the things he was doing.  I think, and he says so as well, that they, referring to him and the French in general, are in much better health than Americans because they eat and drink better.  They eat a lot more chicken and fish instead of other meats, pace themselves during meals, and drink more red wine.  He said though that you shouldn't have more than 2 glasses within a hour, well the men shouldn't.  The women should only have one.  Andre was so knowledgable.  He really really reminded me a lot of my granddaddy, Dr. Ed Clement.  They way he just kept wanting to talk and talk to us, like he could just learn more and more, and how knowledgable he was. He knew SO MUCH! He was a biologist of some sorts before he got interested in marine archaeology.  He told us all about marine archaeology, and presented it to us in conjunction with the rise of diving.  One guy, his name has slipped my mind right now but if you search diving his name will come up I'm sure, well one French guy helped advance diving more so than anyone in the 50s and 60s (I think) so the French are very proud of this and like to boast about it, naturally.  Christian was my favorite. He had about hair that come down a title bit past his shoulders, that was grey with his dark hair remnants underneath.  Big bushy dark eye brows, and a very defined face.  He had a swimmers build, and was the jokester out of the group.  He spoke pretty good English.  Andre told us that most French people learn English while in school, and kept encouraging his friends to speak it because he knew they could.  Christian spoke pretty good English, and was constantly managing a project of some sorts.  
They all were constantly fixing things.  We couldn't figure out our gas situation because the car took diesel, but we didn't know if there was a different kind to use or what (turns out there is this gas called gasole or something like that and it is just a different form of diesel), but ALL of the guys, minus Andre who was presenting to us, were trying to fix the gas situation.  They were just magnificent! They are searching right now for the ship Elephant, a vessel carrying sugar that sank just off the shore from where they were.  They had found some metal remnants in the sea earlier that day, but didn't know for sure if it was from the Elephant or not.  Through them we were able to stay at the same place they were- a series of beach houses that had 2 full rooms, 1 room with twin beds, and 2 futons downstairs, a full kitchen, and a washer and dryer.  It was AMAZING. I felt like I was at the beach.  They made us dinner and breakfast, and we all sat around for a long time visiting and talking about anything and everything you can imagine.  It may just have been my favorite part of the trip so far.  

There's a bear. Where? Over there.

We traveled to Les Eyzies? today.  Here is where prehistory abounds.  It is in the mountains that were formed millions of years ago by ancient rivers, carving out of the limestone these great valleys.  It is in and around these great limestone structures that our ancient homo sapien ancestors lived.  And it is here where the first beginnings of art arose.  Lots and lots of cave art. And lots and lots of skeletal and artifacts discovered in this Peregeuex region.  All the little villages in the area are where we get the names for the Mousterian and Magdelinian culture, etc.  Cro Magnon: cro means rock shelter and magnon was Mr. Magnon, the man who owned the property where the skeleton was found.  It is spectacular here.  So many rivers and places to explore.  There are lots of people riding their bikes around here, and I would love to come back here (maybe Dad could come…he would like it) and bike around the region and kayak.  Back in the caves is where all the (cave) art has been found, though our ancestors didn't actually live in the caves.  They lived outside underneath overhanging building shelters underneath the overhangings with timber and such forming rock shelters.  

Most of the art is deep inside the cave, though they suspect that there was originally a lot more art on the walls at the entrances of the caves, but these have since eroded or disappeared.  These paintings are amazing.  Really.  Not like what you would like of as "cave art."  The depictions of the horses, bison, cows, deer, epix?, and mammoths are so expressive and moving.  Really moving.  If you had viewed the paintings with light from a flame, some of the pictures would have looked like they were moving.  Cool, huh? And those "ole cave men" did that as well as use the natural curves and features of the walls to create an even more 3-dimensional effect.  And some of these are some 2-3 meters in length.  Most of the bigger paintings, which happen to be in almost complete perfect proportion, were created by an artist who wouldn't have even have been able to see the entire piece at once.  The paintings are superimposed on top of one another, adding more to the mystery, expressiveness, and beauty of these paintings.  They remind me a lot of modern abstract art.  

We went to 4 different cave sites: Fontdegaumme, Rouffignac, Cape Blanc, Lascauex, Peche Merle.  In Fontdegaumme, we went back and it was amazing because it was the first one we saw, and the first one when we were first learning to identify all of the different animals.  You couldn't take pictures in any of the caves, and it was very limited who all got to go in them.  In Rouffignac, the paintings were built into the museum, or rather the museum was built into the cave so that it was very simple, easy to access, and easy to protect.  In Cape Blanc, we took a train through the cave in order to the see the paintings in the back of the cave.  This cave was over 10 km long.  When we were all waiting to go back into the cave, our tour guide went over to the big dark door and opened it into the cave.  It was pitch black.  And as he opened the door, it made a loud groaning sound and the cold air from the cave rushed in.  It was like going into the Haunted Mansion at Disney World or what Mariah called hell.  It was so cool though. On the way to the back of the cave, there were tons and tons of scratch marks down the walls and these shallow pits that looked like comfy beds.  Well turns out, they were comfy beds. For ancient cave bears!!! The bears would come to the caves to hibernate, and scratch at the walls.  Lascauex was not the real deal, but the Disney Lascauex, Lascauex II, as it is called.  It was still really neat to see the reproduction, even though it wasn't the real thing.  Peche Merle was one of my favorites because it was the most like a cave.  It had a lot more prominent cave features.  It rivaled Blanchard. What's really interesting about these caves is that most of them are closed to the public to preserve the paintings.  

Which raises the question of why should we even preserve them if the public isn't going to see them.  Why preserve anything?  Most sites have been continuously built up and continued to be used around the world until really the past 50ish years.  Sites have become static.  Nothing is changing, which is good for preserving what's there, but shouldn't these be continuously evolving, changing, and turning into something better like they did in the past? After all, all of the famous tourist sites we want to go see got that way because of change, innovations, and new ideas,  When do we need to stop preserving and start living, changing, adapting?  Or when do we need to stop changing and adapting and start preserving? What are we even preserving? And why are we preserving?  What do these paintings mean? Do they have meaning for us nowadays? Apparently when Picasso visited Lascauex, he said that he became sad and that we have never invented any new art.  It has all been done.

Notre-Dame Abbey

In Saintes, I found the church of my dreams, the church that I just felt so connected to and couldn't get enough of.  It was the church connected to the Abbey in Saintes.  Dating back to the 11th century, work continued on the church throughout the centuries, I thought it was going to be another romanesque/gothic church like the ones we have been seeing in the villages we drive by or in the towns we stay in.  This church was different though.  The outside arches were decorated with scenes of martyrs, angelic figures, and apostles.  Of course the hand of God was descending towards the entrance.  Entering in the church, your eyes were immediately turned to the large and vibrant tapestries hanging on the walls.  They were huge and made in the 20th century I believe.  The artist who created them used the most fiabrent* of colors.  They just pop out at you.  I don't know what it was about those tapestries, but they seemed to transform the church into this wonderful new creation of sorts.  It was an old church, but it seemed young and new with those tapestries and simplistic decorations that were mainly limited to a sheet over the altar and some flowers and candles.  The large and clumped together thin columns that connected to the arches and vaults just made the place come alive.  Even though the church was not painted on the inside, naturally, the tapestries seemed to shine light and give color to the entire place.  Everywhere there seemed to be a light, happy little thought and feeling.  That is what I want my church to look like.  A place that takes both the old and the new, a place that evokes a happy little feeling inside everyone, a place that is both simplistic and overwhelming at the same time.  This church was just absolutely awe-inspiring.  I know not everyone will see this church the way I do, but it really is just amazing, blending the past with the present. Creating something new out of the old, and putting the old to use.

Dancing with the Gargoyles and Saints

We got to see some Roman aqueducts today, but not just see…we were given a tour by the archaeologist who is trying to preserve the aqueducts and transform the area into a tourism spot.  So we actually got to get up close and personal, like climbing down several ladders with the temperature dropping at least 15 degrees. It was amazing, sorta like being in a cave, but it was the water system for the Romans!!! Really neat.  I feel so privileged to be able to visit all of these places, and especially since Dr. Hill connected with all of these different archaeologist before the trip, we have been able to meet 2 so far, and listen/see them discuss and show us their work.  

This trip has truly been amazing.  These aqueducts were so magical.  Their source was an underground spring, and they think that the Romans had a shrine set up next to it, perhaps a temple, because of its magic-like properties.  Perhaps even Bronze Age people inhabited the area/possibly had a shrine as well, because of the magical properties this source of water has.  The area has been continuously inhabited.  The aqueduct (this one with the shrine) would have gone all the way into Saintes which is 17 km away.  

Another part of this aqueduct that we saw was a little bit further away, and it intersected with another aqueduct-very rare and, I think, the only example (or at least the best example) of this in all of France.  With us were a group of archaeologists and politician people because the tour the head archaeologist gave us was also a tour for these bigshots.  Hopefully these bigshots will approve (which I think they will) of the sights becoming tourists sights and pay for more excavations.  They were the sweetest people though.  

I originally said some bad things about the French, but that seems to just be waiters.  They took us out to eat afterwards to this funky little restaurant that had a buffet for the entree and then a set menu for the main course and dessert.  Afterwards we parted ways to go see the Museum filled with Roman sculpture and remnants of its architecture.  I've never seen so many Roman remains.  Ever.  It was amazing.  The Romans were really gifted engineers and artists.  

We walked around some more and went into two different churches and the Roman baths.  One of the churches was such an amazing example of a Gothic church.  You could clearly understand where the nave and apses and transepts were supposed to be, even from the outside.  It was the Cathedral of St. Eutropa.  Underneath the church was the crypt, a beautiful and haunting place that Pope Urban the 2nd consecrated! Inside was the tomb of St. Eutropa.  This place was just so eerie, yet beautiful at the same time.  People would come here and pray, even in the darkest and creepiest of places, but that would have been an even holier place than the main building.  Right next to the saint's grave, underneath the structure, it was as if the Saint was holding up the church.  I wonder how many saints and prominent figures of the church nowadays are holding up Europe's churches? Shifting from the focus and center of the town to now buildings that can be transformed into other structures, how many saints in their crypts or flying buttresses and the sculptures that adorn the sides of the walls, are holding up the crumbling church? We go to churches in Europe as tourists, wanting to see everything, and the churches are just other stops along the journey.  Even when you pray and give thanks inside them, it still feels a bit odd, like something is missing.  Or maybe it's just us not being able to appreciate the church for what it is.  Back home it seems like all the talk has been about breaking down the walls and becoming the church and bringing the church everywhere to everyone.  Here, though, it feels like we should help hold up the church, help out the gargoyles and saints who have been holding up the church for too long. Help bring people back to the church.  Maybe it's just that we need to focus on the church as a tool more. A tool, but not a permanent structure, to help share the love.  There are many stories, even tv shows, about the gargoyles that come alive at night and go on adventures in the night.  Even with them gone, the church still stands (yes, I know that gargoyles do not play a key role in the structure of the building, just help with the rain water).  So maybe we should take a lesson from a gargoyle or a saint, who represents a mission, whether through their good works or through their death that displayed how they were following Jesus, not Christ, but Jesus.  That dare-devil of a guy who had bigger balls than all of us.  Learn to both support the church when it is crumbling, either by transforming it into something new (after all, those sculptors were creating a few pairs of gargoyles in that old church) or just holding it up when in need, and learn to go out into the world on adventures in the night, daring to dance off those heights. 

Saintes!

We are in Saintes now! Saintes is this beautiful town near the ocean, and was once the capital of Roman Gaul and of the region of Aquitaine!  There is SO much history here.  Roman stuff everywhere as well as medieval.  We are staying at the youth hostel, which is very nice and very hostel-esque which I find comforting.  All in a room together, but we can do laundry and get breakfast.  The hostel is located right next to the Abbey.  This abbey had been inhabited for 9 centuries before it was turned into a prison during the French Revolution.  This abbey is stunning.  The inside is beautiful in its simplicity.  The church though that is attached to the abbey is the church of my dreams.  We walked around the town, and had dinner at this wonderful little restaurant that had delicious kebabs! It was right outside an old church.  It is interesting just how the French incorporate the already existing architecture into the current.  After dinner we were walking around town with our acquired gelato and we past by a large building with its huge doors open.  We peeped our heads inside and saw a large group of people sculpting! The couple who had been at the restaurant with us were there as well and encouraged us to come in (the man turned out to be a very posh Brit who kept expecting us to know things like speaking French and the current art culture).  He told us that these people get together once or twice a week and have wine and sculpt! Ah! What a life! They were carving all these different statues and sculptures, some looking like gargoyles, and some just from their imagination.  What was just magnificent for me was that their work shop was located inside an old romanesque.  There was a HUGE stained glass window inside, and carvings all over the place.  The sculptures of the Middle Ages would be working inside and around churches to create pieces to adorn the churches.  And today, the church is being used for people to create art, but that art is not necessarily for the church.  The church still serves as the tool though, the sanctuary, for these artists to come and use their talent.  Shouldn't all churches be like that? Even with the dying church, can we not just transform the church into something new, something useful, something that encourages people to use their talents to create something new? Who knows, a new church might just spring up from the remnants.  

I spy with my little eyes...

Today we saw the megaliths in Carnac! When I say there were thousands…I literally mean there were THOUSANDS. Everywhere.  Once you got to the site, everywhere you looked there were megaliths. Everywhere.  They weren't the size of Stonehenge, but probably about 4 ft-7 ft tall (I think…I'm really bad about judging height).  They were amazing.  It's stuff like this that makes your mind get lost in the past.  Wondering why people erected these monuments, who were these people, what was the point of it all, what did it mean to these people? But does figuring all this out have any meaning nowadays? If we can make educated guesses of all those questions…does it even matter? Who cares? Why should we care? What's the point of studying the past? Correcting or helping out the present and future? But how?

After visiting the megaliths we went to 3 particular megalith sites.  One is no longer standing, but at one point it would have stood over 18 m high (I think it is higher than this I just can't remember the exact height right now).  Folks, this thing is HUGE.  Even on its side and broken into 4 pieces, you can still feel the awesomeness it would have evoked for someone seeing it while it was standing.  They think an earth quake caused it to break.  It's so cool to think about how they would have erected this thing without the use of the wheel.  How on earth did they do it?! At this site there are also two (I think this is correct) dolmonds.  They are burial chambers basically.  A bunch of stones standing up and one large slab of rock on top.  Then this structure is covered on the outside by little rocks.  It's awesome.  They have carvings on all of the rocks.  Really captivating.

Leaving Carnac, we headed towards the town on the sea, or Olonne Sur Mer.  Here Dr. Hill had gotten in contact with an underwater archaeologist named Andre Allorin.  We stayed near him, and he and his friends and family entertained us for the evening/morning. They deserve a post of their own. 

The village of Carnac

French sucks.  I can't understand the language, but want to so badly at the same time.  I wish I could speak/understand it.  It makes me really nervous thinking about traveling alone to Taize…hopefully it wont be too bad and I can pick up some French phrases.  I love English.  A lot of people speak it thankfully, but not all.  The french definitely do not like americans.  I feel like I'm being talked about all the time.  It has made me realize just how much I love America and England.  Places where I understand the culture and the culture understands me.  Also, unlike America and England where if you smile when something is being misunderstood people sympathize and it lightens the mood and people think you are cute…well in France people get annoyed (or at least appear to be) and look mean and upset and just unhappy-like they are constipated almost…

The food is realllllyyyyyy good though.  Very light and refreshing.  For breakfast it is just cereal and yogurt and fruit and coffee.  Well, lots of bread if you can eat it.  It is really rather unfortunate just how much I can't eat here. I got glutenated tonight, and I don't know if it was from dinner or if it is the cereal I have that I know has malt in it, but it is the only cereal I could find without ble (flour) so I am making do (do). hehehe. If there was ever a time to cave and eat gluten, France would be the place. I'm mean literally it is about 85% of their diet! EVERYWHERE. Stupid Celiac disease.  All I want to do is eat a baguette. I know Rachel that it wouldn't be worth it, but this time it would be. Put some cheese on it…YUM! Ah! The cheese!!! So delicious! Oh, and the chocolate and caramels and nougat and candy and YUM! Oh and tonight we had all these different fish…Ned, you would have been in heaven.  It was divine.  I'm going to try and stay gluten free, but we shall see how long it goes.  If I do, all I will be eating is fruit and cheese…which doesn't sound too bad if I can find some good fresh fruit.  I have only had one glass of wine so far…I hope to have more. We just only have 30 euros per person per day which may sound like a lot if we are just getting fruit and cheese and bread (baguettes only cost like 59 cents…I think they are the cheapest things you can buy!) but when you go out for dinner (we haven't stayed in a place yet where you can cook) you end up spending around 25 Euro per person….ridiculous. 

Sigh…

Bayeux was beautiful and the tapestry was amazing!! (if you don't know what I am talking about look it up cause I might die a little inside if you ask me what it is…it's called the Bayeux Tapestry if you don't (don't tell me) know.) We are in Carnac right now.  Carnac is where all the megaliths are and it is right on the coast! There are THOUSANDS of them (again, look it up…it is actually pretty cool!). We are going to go tour them tomorrow.

I'm liking the trip so far, I'm just a nervous thinking about after this trip…it seems to be all I can think about (probably because I am not as prepared as I should be SHOCKER). Once I get some wifi, I'm going to book train tickets and hostels/hotels for before Taize and after (maybe since idk if I can stay a second week I feel like I shouldn't book because I don't know what I am doing). I'm definitely going to be getting rid of some of these clothes while I am over here.  Way too much (sadness).  Thank goodness I brought my own shampoo (thanks dad for putting it in there last minute!) because it cost around 8 euro here…thats about 12 bucks for the SMALL bottle!! I miss you guys a lot.  

The people on my trip are cool.  Robin is really sweet and is seriously the nicest person I have ever met! Mariah is sweet and funny. Seth is sweet and is a mini version of Dr. Hill.  Dr. Hill is good, is getting used to us and traveling around with us.  

I need to stop dishin out dirt on the French.  Needs to stop.  

We are staying in this adorable little hotel in Carnac.  It's kinda like a cottage you would find on the East coast, like in Rhode Island or something.  It is very quaint.  We had dinner here, a very fancy smancy kinda restaurant although I'm slowly discovering that most restaurants are like that at dinner time (which is 730-9 in France).  It was really funny because there was this old lady there with CRAZY looking hair (it was cute but it was just pulled out and standing on its ends) and she was a regular, I think, because they had set up a bottle of wine and one place setting (she ate alone) before she even got there.  I think she was talking about us as well, because when the waiter came by to check on her they were talking and laughing and then I turned to look at her and she immediately put her hand to her face to tell a secret to the waiter and they both started laughing and smiling.  It was adorable.  

We walked around the town for a bit, and after that went down to the beach.  It reminded me a lot of the beach at Bamburgh, though this one had more sea life.  

It was really just the quaintest hotel to stay in.  Carnac is very beautiful. Iphoto just moved all my photos to finder, so I have to individually move each picture to iphoto so I may not upload any photos for a while which stinks poo poo, but I'll try to post some soon. 

Ta-ta for now!

Pt. 2 & Pt. 3

Pt. 2

We are in Bayeux!!! Correctly spelled now.  It is adorable!! I love it. It is a very medieval town. So adorable.  We are staying in Hotel Mogador.  It is absolutely beautiful! took some pictures.  Bayeux is just the neatest little town. 

Pt. 3

The Bayeux Cathedral (I think that's what it's called…) is just stunning! Really made me gasp.  It's surprising thinking back to Paris and seeing the Notre Dame.  I was very underwhelmed by it all, but the Bayeux Cathedral was just gorgeous-well, the outside anyway.  The girls and I didn't go inside, unlike the guys. We thought it would be closed, but they went inside, a tiny door apparently, and it was pretty cool.  I think I would have gotten that feeling that I have had like in the York Minster.  Maybe, just maybe. But what do I know.  

This town is so medieval and kick-ass (for those of you who don't know my Ultimate Frisbee team award was "Most Likely to go Medieval on your Ass…haha).  The streets are tiny, most of the architecture dates from either the Middle Ages or from the 18th century, lots of cobblestones and churches, the water ways are filly with medieval stuff, and the staircases and wood beam ceilings are just spectacular.  We walked around Bayeux a lot today, trying to find a place to stay, but it was definitely worth the walk! I don't think I could find my way around as much as I did in Paris, but I tend to not look at streets signs in a place that has so much visible old history.  

The drive up to Bayeux was beautiful…well from what I remember.  I slept most of the way, but overtime I briefly woke up I would see rolling hills, green hills, sprawling forests, and then, to me, the most magical thing happens as you are driving along Europe-there will be nothing but fields, forests, and hills, and then all of the sudden, over the tree-top horizon, you'll see it.  The very tip of it.  The tip of a spire, or steeple if you will.  You just see the top fixture, but you know what it is.  Slowly the rest of the structure is revealed, bit by bit.  You see the ornate sculptures, the pointed (or rounded) arches, the faint colors of the stained glass, the stones, and the little tiny details that might be too far away to notice, but you can just sense their tiny presence that make the building spectacular.  That was my favorite part of the day, and why I am so excited about this trip.  If you are really really lucky, a castle will come out of nowhere, and this thing of power just captivates you.  You can get lost thinking about the history that occurred there, what battles and drama and love took place there.  Same with the churches.  And not just medieval stuff as well, but all historic buildings.  They all tell a story.  The history of the architecture seems to be much more appreciated here than Paris, but the same vibe seems to be given off towards the timber medieval structures-just  a shrug or a disregard.  Nothing too spectacular to the Europeans, well at least to the French from what I can make out.  

We haven't seen that many sources of water here, which is interesting.  Unlike England, where I feel like I saw little streams and brooks everywhere, I haven't seen any here.  Although we did see a rather large river and lake thing today, which I haven't really seen to that degree in England.  I really miss England.  Most of my observations of France have been in comparison and contrast to England.  I love England.  I want to live there.  As soon as I get done with Taize, I'm going to go to England, maybe even leave a week early and just spend time in England.  I really want to be back there.  I think a big thing has to do with the language barrier (and the food-the French really eat a LOT of bread.  Like I would say 80% of their diet (ok so I might be exaggerating, but you notice it a lot more when you can't have it!!)).  I have been so privileged to have been given the opportunity to have gone to England, now this summer, 5 times.  It has become a little home.  Like Bath, NC almost.  That magical feeling you get when driving over the bridge, over Back Creek, and seeing the sail boats…well that's what it feels like in England too-seeing all of the rolling hills, the churches and small villages, the sheep and cows, and just the whole feel of the country.  I really do love it.  Tonight we got cider at dinner (the dinner was delicious-onion soup, duck, and creme burle!).  It wasn't like English/Irish cider, but had a differently taste to it and was treated like wine. Interesting.  It was good, but just different.  Idk. 

Ok confession: I consciously possibly glutenated myself.  I do this a lot at home sometimes when I really want a food and don't know 100% if it is gluten free, but there is no bread visible or anything like that.  Well tonight there was.  In my onion soup there was a big piece of bread lying on top and covered with melted cheese.  At first glance I though it was just the cheese, but no. I was lying to myself. It was bread. Gluten-filled bread.  I tried to tell myself, "why don't you just not eat it? People will understand?" But no.  My mind said instead, "just eat around the bread and you will be fine.  Don't be that ridiculous girl who sends back her food.  You don't need to freak out that much over gluten."  I don't feel too glutenated now, but I know I ate some on accident.  That's right folks, I ate some gluten and I liked it.  The taste of it's cherry chapstick…wait…(sorry I've had Katy Perry stuck in my head all day).  But really, that soup was dank.  I'm going to try much harder not to eat any, but it really is everywhere-not exaggerating.  

Another thing I forgot about Europe because it is so far up north, it is 10:30 right now and has just now started getting dark outside.  If only it was like this when I was a little kid going to bed and watching my friends still play outside, while my siblings and I went to bed with the sun.  Sigh.  It is nice, but strange because the French stay out later (well, at least in Paris, I haven't been outside since 9:30 but that's what I'm guessing from the sound of people outside our window).  This is another contrast that I keep making with England.  On the weekdays the pubs close (well from what I remember) at 11, but here it seems like nothing starts until 11! In Paris it seemed as if they started eating at 9 and then went out at 11. Ridiculous.  Another thing I hate about Europe in general (sorry this is really negative I'm just getting used to France at this point): SMOKE. I HATE SMOKING.  It just smells so bad.  I tend not to mind it over here, but when the room smells like smoke, it's just not something I want to sleep in.  

We are going to go see the Bayeux Tapestry tomorrow morning and then Carnac!!! I'm so stoked! There are just thousands of megaliths there. PUMPED. Well, I guess I'll just update later. Oh and I still haven't set up my phone yet.  Whoops.  I'm bad, but I just want to do stuff and read.  SIgh. I'll do it tomorrow…maybe. 

Cheers!

Pt. 1 Day 3

Pt. 1

Things to bring to Europe (especially if you are going to be walking a lot and kinda care what you look like or appreciate fashion and comfort): 

CLOSE TOED SHOES* geez. I really wish I had brought some. And now every time I keep trying to buy some they are either too expensive, wrong size, wrong color, or just not there. I hope I can find some later on in France.  Maybe I'll just have to get some for London. Speaking of London, I have way too much stuff in my pack and could totally downsize (especially since I don't have to dress up, just play/work clothes really, for Taize (at least I hope)), BUT I don't know what I should wear in London.  Do people dress up for research? Look all professional and such? Or do they just wear comfortable, but not too casual clothes? Help? I haven't even applied for a reading room pass yet-eek!!! I will be royally screwed if I can't get one while I am over here.  At least now I think I have a general idea of what I am going to research.  Disciples, Jesus, God, and warriors.  Warrior-ization of Christianity.  I wonder if anyone has written on this yet? hmm probably. Actually 99% sure, but don't know if anyone has ever used "warrior-ization". Wonder if I can search that? Probably not.  

COMFY PANTS* seriously people, Paris is further north than most of America-and that's not even the most northern part of France.  Idk if anyone else thinks that Paris is basically across from New York City, but I do and my orientation is way off.  Is it my sub conscious telling me to align the western countries together? The "west" just is naturally connected, minus the Atlantic?  It gets cold though. And the wind blows a lot. I really like it actually, I just wish I had comfy pants and comfy closed toed shoes.  Oh, and a SCARF*.  If I had all those things I'd be golden. I'd actually get rid of all my other clothes. Maybe. Actually I might. There was a homeless shelter (I think) next to our hostel in Paris, so I might go there and check it out.

I'm sad to say my chacos have failed me in this case. No, can't say that. Rather I have failed my chacos.  Sad day.

Paris is wonderful, and I could spend HOURS walking around.  I'm excited to go to Baux? and to Normandy. Home of my Avengian? kings.  I really wish I could speak French and think in French.  And in German and Spanish.  New goal. Study those languages, but study them in a  way that I speak it all the time and think of it.  Like Christan says she does with spanish.  Just be flipping back and forth from English to Spanish to French to German.  I keep saying SI instead of WE.  And my tongue has the constant urge to slip a GRACIAS instead of a MER CI?. I get really excited here though when I hear Spanish and German-just wish I remembered more.  Maybe I'll study that while we have free time. No, no, need to focus on research.

Well we are off to get the car! Ta ta for now!

Paris!

So today we arrived in Paris!

It was marvelous! I got to sit next to this really adorable hispanic couple on the flight over and everything went according to schedule (except I may or may not have properly entered the country and gone through all of customs…but let's just keep that on the DL). I don't think I am appreciating Paris enough because I have had only about 3 hours of sleep and am now in a different time zone, although I seem to be doing fine now.  We shall see.  

We walked around the city and saw Notre Dame!!! A little bit sad, I was not wowed like I was at York. That may just be because I'm not used to Catholic statues being on/in cathedrals or the fact that me and God ain't feelin' each other right now, but I'm still so glad I saw it and took a bajillion photos.  

We are staying at the most ADORABLE hotel called Miji, I believe.  It is in a medieval building and is just awesome-except the down stairs has begun to smell like pee….sigh. Oh and I apparently don't know how to properly plug in an adapter because I shocked the wazoo out of myself and now have two lovely blister to mark my stupidity.  I really do like Paris though.  It's a blend of all these different cities, but is its own unique Paris.  It is interesting to walk through town and buildings will date from the modern period and then all of the sudden BOOM there is a tiny medieval building.  To everyone else it might not go BOOM, but that's how it seems to me.  I love it.  Although it seems as if people don't appreciate the medieval Paris as much, maybe it's just because there is SO MUCH medieval Paris or that these medieval parts don't particularly mark something as significant as the giant pillar-monuments that may or may not be phallic representations of power (thank you dr. berryman).  

I was really worried about the group at first because everyone was really quiet.  I already knew Robin and Dr. Hill, and kinda knew everyone else, but I always get nervous about this kind of stuff.  Maybe after we all drink wine together tomorrow everything will get better?  Alcohol fixing problems? Maybe, just maybe…when you are in FRANCE. 

I really hope the trip to Taize goes well. I'm really nervous about it. 

Well hopefully I'll be able to post this soon! 

…

So it is really the 14 as I am posting this, and obviously I haven't had access to the internet, but I've been trying to get access so hopefully every couple of days I'll be able to post stuff.

Cheers!

Can't Turn off the Rain

This summer I am traversing across the Atlantic Ocean back to Europe once again.  I'm going to France on an "archaeological tour" of France with Dr. Hill and 3 other Hendrix students on an Odyssey trip from June 9 (hopefully) through June 29.  Don't ask me where we are all going in France, all I know is that we are (supposed to be) arriving in Paris on June 10.  All the debbie downer () are because there is a thunderstorm right on top of Chicago right now, so (hopefully) my flight should get in now at around 1230 and I SHOULD get to Chicago in time to board my 6:05 flight to Paris.  If everything goes according to plan (and the weather cooperates) I should be arriving in Paris at 9:25 tomorrow! So fingers crossed everything goes smoothly!!!  There are a bunch of people who are all delayed, but right now I'm hard core creepin' on a group of older ladies who seem to be best friends (there are 5 of them) who (I think) are all going to Paris together.  

I say I have no idea where all we are traveling in France and that is partly true.  I'm sure there will be a meeting of some sorts once we all convene together at the hotel so I'll post where all we are going specifically after we meet.  It's kinda more exciting not knowing exactly where we will all be going.

After the Odyssey trip…well this took a long time to figure out what I was going to do.  I finish with Odyssey June 29, but I am doing research in London with Dr. Pfau, Dr. Resinski, and 5 other Hendrix students from July 20-July 27.  So from June 29-July 20 I had free.  Free to do whatever the heck I wanted to do in Europe. Exciting right? Wrong. As a girl who has been raised by parents (mainly mom and dad for mom's sake) that ask right after summer is over what we will be doing next summer, not having a plan is terrifying.  Although this lack of plan was entirely due to my procrastination skills and the indecisiveness that runs in the Garrett family, I finally have a plan.  After looking at all of the archaeological digs I could find, wwoofing programs (which I was going to do but the place I was going to stay can't accommodate my gluten free diet), and thinking about just traveling alone for three weeks, I have finally made a plan, got a place to stay and everything (hopefully). 

From July 3-(hopefully) July 17 I will be in Taize!!! I will be there for at least a week, and will hopefully be able to stay another week either volunteering or a week of silence (idk if I can do it, but I think I should try it…I feel like I'm in Eat, Pray, Love). I'm really excited about staying at Taize.  If you want to find out about what it is…here's a link:

http://www.taize.fr/  

I have about 3 days in between getting to Taize and leaving Paris and in between leaving Taize and getting to London.  I'm trying to think of places to visit. Any suggestions?

Once in London, I'll be conducting research at the British Museum, British Library (hopefully), and another museum possibly.  My project: looking at depictions of Christ in Anglo-Saxon literature.  I was originally going to be looking at the image of the Anglo-Saxon warrior, but to narrow my project I decided to focus on Christ.  I'm still not quite sure though what all I should look at.  I know I'm going to look at the Dream of the Rood and artifacts associated with Christ and the warrior culture.  If you have any ideas for me or any Anglo-Saxon poems that you know of that depict Christ…holla at cha gurl den. 

Well since I've been writing this the OTHER flight to Chicago has boarded and (I think) left.  Our flight still says delayed till 12:30, so hopefully we will be leaving then.  Hopefully this storm is moving to the east and not down south.  I just pray our flight gets here by then…bottom line I just HAVE to get to Chicago before 5.  Fingers crossed!!! 

Till then I'll be researching and reading as always, and constantly looking at the status of the flight and weather.com.

Cheers!